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Riad Laaroussa

Fes, Morocco · $$ · Best for: First-time Fes visitors who want charm and a hammam

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A 17th-century palace with an orange-tree courtyard and a proper stone hammam. Great cooking classes too.

Riad Laaroussa gets the fundamentals of a Fes stay exactly right: a 17th-century palace around a courtyard of orange trees, rooms that are generous rather than precious, and — the trump card — a proper stone hammam in the house, with scrubs and massages worth planning an afternoon around.

The cooking class, which starts with a trip into the market, is one of the best in the medina, and prices sit comfortably in the mid-range. It is the kind of place people return to on every visit to Fes and recommend with a slightly proprietary air.

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